All night while we were in Praia do Forte it rained. While the hotel room was one of the nicest and cleanest we’ve stayed in so far, it wasn’t enough to keep out the sound of torrents of water running off the roof. (On a side note, the hotel was called Pousada Amanhecer and was the closest thing to an American hotel that we’ve experienced. It was R$70 per night. We tried the hostel first, but they didn’t have any dorm beds available and they wanted R$100 for a double room, so we decided to look for something else and found our hotel. Also, the hotel’s breakfast was perhaps the best we’ve had on this trip, which is really saying something.)

Anyway, the rain continued the next morning and doused our dreams of a relaxing day at the beach. We considered trying to find the fort again, but figured a hike over dirt paths in the rain would also not be that pleasant, especially if we checked out of our hotel and had to carry all of our stuff with us.

As a result, we decided to just head back to Salvador. Amazingly, there was a bus passing right by as we walked out of town that was headed to Salvador. We got it and it turned out to be substantially cheaper than the bus we rode in on (only about R$4 each). So that was good.

When we got back to Salvador it was early Saturday. We considered getting another bus and going to Cachoeira for the night, but we decided it would be better not to spend the money on another bus ride.

Instead, we took a (cheaper city) bus back to Pelorinho, where we went to a bunch of free museums. Most of the free musuems are small, sponsored/endowed by a specific group or person, and focus on a really specific kind of art or history. They’re also i rally cool old buildings. We basically spent our entire Saturday in free museums. Some of the highlights included a museum of old postcards from the Bahia, a video installation exploring Brazil’s love of soccer, and an exhibit of Afro-Brazilian wood carvings. Somehow, we had missed most of these museums the first time around and, because the rain was still preventing us from going got the beach, we were really excited to have found them.


Written by Jim Dalrymple II

Urbanism and travel writer. Also a journalist covering the news.

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